Varanasi is not just a spiritual city — it is one of the most important centers of Hindustani classical music in the world. The Benares Gharana, one of the oldest and most respected music traditions, was born here. Every evening, the sound of sitars, tablas, and vocals drifts through the ancient lanes, making the city hum with melodies older than memory.
Key Takeaways
- The Benares Gharana: Origins
- Where to Listen to Live Music
- Learning Music in Varanasi
- The Daily Music Life of Kashi
The Benares Gharana: Origins
The Benares Gharana traces its lineage to Pandit Banarasidas (1600s), but it was Pandit Vishnu Digambar Paluskar and later Pandit Omkarnath Thakur who formalized its teaching methods. The gharana is known for its khayal and dhrupad styles, with emphasis on emotional expression.
The gharana emphasizes intricate taans (vocal runs), elaborate alaps (opening sections of a raga), and a deep connection to the devotional music tradition of Kashi. Students undergo rigorous training lasting 10-15 years.
Khayal Style
The Benares khayal is known for its intricate improvisations and emotional depth. Performances can last 2-3 hours.
Dhrupad Tradition
An older, more austere form of classical music still practiced by a few dedicated musicians in Varanasi.
Where to Listen to Live Music
Every evening, live classical music performances take place across Varanasi. From intimate baithak sessions in havelis to grand concerts at temples, the city offers countless opportunities to experience the tradition firsthand.
Many hotels and cultural organizations host nightly baithak-style concerts where musicians perform in an intimate setting on the floor, close to the audience — the traditional format for classical music.
Sankat Mochan Temple
Evening concerts during the Sangeet Samaroh (April-May). Free entry.
Hotel Ganges View
Weekly classical music evenings with dinner. Tickets Rs 800-1200.
BHU Campus
Open-air concerts at the Faculty of Performing Arts. Check university notice boards.
Learning Music in Varanasi
Varanasi has dozens of music schools, both traditional gharana-based training and modern conservatories. The Banaras Hindu University (BHU) has a dedicated Faculty of Performing Arts offering diploma and degree courses in Indian classical music.
For short-term visitors, many local gurus offer crash courses lasting 1-2 weeks that cover the basics of raga, tal, and performance etiquette. These are typically held in the guru home or studio.
BHU Music Faculty
Degree courses in vocal, sitar, tabla. Annual fee Rs 5,000-15,000.
Private Gurus
Traditional one-on-one training. Rs 500-2000 per session depending on the guru reputation.
Short-term Workshops
1-2 week intensive courses. Rs 2,000-5,000. Contact local tourism offices for listings.
The Daily Music Life of Kashi
In Varanasi, music is not a performance — it is a way of life. Students practice on the ghats at dawn, temple priests sing bhajans throughout the day, and in the evening, the sound of the harmonium and tabla rises from every mohalla.
Dawn Practice
Visit Assi Ghat around 5:30 AM to hear students practicing morning ragas.
Temple Music
Kashi Vishwanath Temple has regular morning and evening bhajan sessions open to visitors.
Mohalla Gatherings
Informal music gatherings in residential neighborhoods. Ask locals for the nearest one.
Quick Tips
Varanasi is home to the Benares Gharana. Visit Sankat Mochan Temple in April-May for major concerts. BHU offers music courses. Evening baithak sessions happen nightly at various venues. Free dawn ragas at Assi Ghat.
Frequently Asked Questions
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